Saturday, October 31, 2009

Tip: Vector Blood

Adding a touch of blood to an illustration can instantly make an image seem more sinister. I've added blood to a couple of pages of Green Corner, as well as the 2008 Hallowe'en special.

Creating blood in Illustrator is very simple.

For the base:
  1. Set your fill colour to: C 0/ M 100/ Y 60/ K 60 and transparency mode to multiply.
  2. Use the pencil tool (N) to draw a path with sguiggly pieces that look like they're dripping off. It's okay to be a little messy with this, it's an organic shape.
  3. Use the smooth tool to get rid of any sharp edges that you don't want. (option/alt while pencil is active)
For the highlights:
  1. Set the fill colour to C 20 / M 70 / Y 100 / K 10 and the transparency mode to hard light.
  2. Use the pencil and/or pen tool to draw your highlights. Be conservative with these, you don't want it to be too shiny. You just need enough to add depth.

And this is what it looks like (click to enlarge):


I hope you enjoyed this tip! Please feel free to leave a comment.

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Friday, October 30, 2009

Tip: Creating Vector Fog

Fog can be used in an illustration to enhance a spooky mood and chilly atmosphere or simply as an effect to draw attention to the focal point.

My last two Hallowe'en specials for Green Corner have used fog, but each illustration has a very different mood.

The Red Riding Hood illustration has a subtly chilly, spooky atmosphere. The somewhat deserted path, the blood on the axe in Barudo's hand, and the fog draping across the feet of the characters help reiterate the theme. The image is meant to be a little spooky, but not frightening.

In the Pop Idol illustration, the tone is much lighter, vibrant, and cheerful. Here, the fog is used as a stage effect to enhance the theme of a 1980's inspired pop singer performing on a stage. With this image, the intent was to emphasize the fun and escapism that dressing in costume can bring.


It's very easy to create fog in Illustrator using the feather effect.
My settings for fog:
  • Fill with 10% grey, reduce opacity to 40%.
  • To soften the edges, use Effect > Stylize > Feather.

    Depending on the size of the paths you create, you may need to adjust the feather radius, but I generally use around 0.2" and find that softens the edges just enough. Remember to make your path larger than you want the fog to appear, as the feather makes the fill appear smaller.
You can also experiment with different colours, to suit your colour scheme and the mood of your image. This tip can also be adapted for creating wispy clouds.

Note: the feather effect does involve rasterization, but it will scale more smoothly than a regular raster image and output based on the document raster effects settings.


Look out for another Hallowe'en-related tip soon! Hope you enjoyed this one!

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Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Tutorial: Creating a Vector Fireball

This tutorial requires the use of two tools in Illustrator:
  • the flare tool (located under the rectangle and ellipse tools)

  • the spiral tool (located under the line segment tool)


The end result of the tutorial will be to create a fireball that can be used as an effect in vector artwork. Below is an example of how this technique can be incorporated into a figure drawing. The image is from page 12 of Green Corner.

Colour values are listed in CMYK in percentages (in the format of #/#/#/#). This tutorial is mostly a list of the settings I used for this effect. The tools are pretty simple to use and only need modifications to suit this purpose.

The Flare:

Here is what a flare looks like in outline mode:


Compared to regular view, against a background:



  1. The full size of this flare is 3.0084 inches. The bottom most part of the flare has a pale yellow stroke (5/20/50/0) of 3.171 pt. Opacity: 10% screen. Feather: 0.03 inches.
  2. Moving up a level, this part of the flare is a circle with a radial gradient for a fill. Opacity: 15% overlay. Feather: 0.1 inches. Th gradient is composed of two swatches: a rich black (0/100/100/100) at 0% and 100%, plus a brownish red (29/80/90/25) placed at 73% on the gradient slider. The midpoint remains at the default position of 50%.
  3. Another radial gradient, this one with opacity at 50% overlay. Feather: 0.1 inches. Colours and placements on the gradient bar are as follows: white at 15% (with the next midpoint diamond at 40%), a dark rose (27/69/50/28) located at 45% on the slider (next midpoint at 40%), rich black (0/100/100/100) at 85% on the slider (next midpoint at 70%), orange red (14/80/90/0) located at 90% (next midpoint at 25%), and rich black (0/100/100/100) at 100% on the slider.
  4. Moving up a level, to a slightly smaller circle filled with a gradient. Opacity: 100% difference. Feather: 0.1 inches. Gradient stops are white at 15%, midpoint at 35%, and black at 100%.

For the entire flare group, opacity is set to 100% lighten.


The spirals:

The brush style used for these is "dry brush 10" from the "Artistic_Paintbrush" brush library. The feather effects are more noticeable with these thick strokes, and help to soften the edges to seem more like flames and less like flat ink.

  1. The bottom most spiral is a group, with chunks missing from the original spiral. Opacity: 40% hard light. Feather: 0.05 inches. Stroke is 0.75 pt and coloured orange (0/80/100/0).
  2. The second spiral is intact. Opacity: 60% multiply. Feather: 0.1 inches. Stroke: 1 pt, maroon (0/91/100/51).
  3. The third spiral appears intact, but has been cut into four pieces for a more pleasing line quality. Opacity: 80% multiply. Feather: 0.1 inches. Stroke: 1 pt, warm yellow (10/40/100/0).
  4. Again, this spiral appears to be intact, but is actually cut into four segments. Opacity: 100% multiply. Feather: 0.07 inches. Stroke: 0.656 pt, light brown (25/45/70/5).

  5. A smaller spiral that appears to be intact, this time in three segments. Opacity: 40% hard light. Feather: 0.04 inches. Stroke: 0.374 pt, warm yellow (10/40/100/0).

The following image is what the fireball looks like assembled, on a background. Transparency modes, opacity, stroke thickness for the spirals, and colours will need adjusting depending on the background being used. It's important to create some contrast between the fire ball and the surroundings, or the effect won't be as strong. Also, don't forget that when placed in a scene, the fire ball is a light source and will affect the placement of shadows and highlights on the surroundings.



I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Feel free to let me know if you liked this and/or have any questions in the comments.

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Friday, July 10, 2009

Which is More Readable? Black on White or White on Black?

Speaking as someone who's studied typography, there are truths to both sides of this argument. I'm going to get a bit technical here, feel free to ask about any terms that seem confusing.

Black text on a light background is common in print because it is high contrast and very legible, but also because it's more cost-effective to print. Printing light text reversed out of dark ink is a little more involved and may involve trapping to ensure that fine lines aren't obscured by ink spreading through the substrate.

This is more of a problem with a lower-quality or toothy substrate. Newsprint, for instance, generally requires a low line screen value because ink spreads very easily. This also makes trapping a little more tricky. A coated paper (or even a calendared paper) found in art books and the like will require a higher line screen value, and trapping is easier.

When I say line screen, I'm referring to the halftone line screens used in most professional quality presses. It's similar to the process used by inkjet printers. Resolution (measured in Dots Per Inch for print) is closely related to line screen, being 1.5 to 2 times the line screen value. For newsprint, 150 dpi is usually crisp; for art books and more high resolution printing, 300 dpi is a common value.

Screen resolution is measured in Pixels Per Inch, which is similar to DPI. 72 ppi used to be a very common screen resolution. Nowadays, users often have larger screens capable of higher resolutions. This is something that web designers need to remember when setting type size on the web. Setting type in pixels is unreliable as the physical measurement changes based on resolution. But that's a topic for another post.

For the typography enthusiasts, there are 72 postcript points per inch when measuring type for print. That doesn't mean that type is printed at 72 dpi. Type is usually treated as vector shapes (which are considered resolution independent, so they will print at the highest possible resolution based on the print settings). Again, that's not really something I want to discuss in-depth for this post.

Back to the topic at hand: if we're really going to get specific, the issue is actually about high contrast for readability. For something like a projected presentation, white text on black is actually far more readable and less straining to read, regardless of the audience. In a dark room, it's easy to focus on bright letters but straining to focus on dark letters surrounded by a bright background.

Looking at a computer screen though, it boils down to things like age, visual acuity, and personal preference. It's also a mistake to treat print and on-screen media as overly similar. There are many errors that people make when they try to transition from one to the other. Certain things work in print that don't work on screen and vice versa.

There is high contrast between the primary type and the background on my art blog. But it is not black text on a white background (at least not when you visit the site, I can't control the display in feed aggregators). I chose a dark type on a light background combination as I want to appeal to as wide an audience as possible.

However, if I were designing a site that primarily targeted teenagers, light type on a dark background could work just fine. Teenagers online are more accustomed to looking at light text on a dark background.

There also needs to be some consideration given to serif versus sans-serif typefaces as well as the weight of a typeface. A very fine weight sans-serif can be hard to read in body copy when the text is lighter than the background. On screen this can cause some readability issues if the type is too thin or too small. In print, the type would need to be trapped more carefully so that letterforms aren't obscured, meaning that there are more possible problems with this combination in print.

Many studies will tell you that a sans-serif typeface is more readable on screen, and a serif typeface is more readable in print; but that's a bit subjective. There are certainly ways to use both on screen and in print effectively.

I have a program on my computer for checking contrast for colour-blind visitors called Sim Daltonism. I use it sometimes on my sites and sites I design for clients to ensure that there is distinguishable contrast for all text. It's a simple program, but it makes it easy to double-check contrast.

I hope you found this post interesting. Feel free to comment with any of your thoughts on the subject of contrast for readability.

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Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Illustrator Tip #2 - Knife versus Scissors

Click the image to see a larger version. I have moved the separate pieces apart to show the divisions.

A friend asked me recently what the difference is between the knife and scissors tools. You'll notice in the image above that the knife tends to cut on a squiggly path. It also creates closed shapes, which isn't always what you want when modifying a shape.

Personally, I prefer the scissors tool (C). You can cut anywhere on the path to get exactly the line that you want. For closed shapes, you get more control by using the pathfinder palette with overlapping shapes.

Hope you found this tip useful! If you have an Illustrator question feel free to ask. Or, if you have a suggestion for a tip, feel free to let me know.

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Sunday, April 26, 2009

Illustrator Tip #1 - Multi-Part Dialogue Balloons

This mini tutorial gives instructions on how to make multi-part dialogue balloons for cartooning. You may like to download a copy of my angled brushes before using this technique. The brushes are free to use. Please to not redistribute or sell them. If you need an older version, just let me know.

Download the Illustrator CS3 brushes (contained in a zip archive)
  1. Create ellipses and centre them behind each section of text. Draw the tail, allowing the open end to slightly overlap the last balloon in the series.
  2. Draw a path to use as a connecting point between the balloons that don’t touch with the 135˚ angled brush with a stroke of 0.25 pt.

  3. With the path selected, choose “expand appearance” from the “object” menu. Delete the central path by selecting it in the layers palette and pressing delete. Select the remaining path and apply the 135˚ brush. Making sure the path is still selected, click with the eyedropper in one of the balloons to select the same fill and stroke settings. Now the path matches the balloons.

  4. Select the balloons and the connector path. Make sure that the text and tail are not selected. Click on “add to shape area” in the pathfinder palette.

  5. Don’t click on “expand” in the pathfinder palette. This allows you to adjust the shapes after connecting, if necessary. Only expand when you’re sure you don’t want to edit the shape further.
Hope you enjoyed this tip! I'm going to be posting more like this in the future.

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Saturday, December 6, 2008

My Tutorial Promoted on Vectortuts

I usually don't post this frequently, but I wanted to mention that my tutorial for creating comics with Illustrator is being promoted over on Vectortuts.

Vectortuts is a vector tutorial blog that I regularly read and recommend to anyone who wants to find some quality Illustrator tutorials online. Everyone has different techniques, and there's always an opportunity to learn something new to help you be more efficient. The article is called 20 Challenging Illustrator Tutorials on DeviantArt, and my tutorial is listed at #10.

This is the same tutorial that was featured on Dani Jones's blog a while back, when I won second place in her Art and Learning contest.

I will be posting more Illustrator tips and tricks here in the future. If there's anything you've seen in the pages of Green Corner that you'd like to ask about; please do!

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Monday, July 14, 2008

Tip: Making Reader-Enabled PDFs

Here's a simple tip for allowing people with Adobe Reader to be able to save form data in a PDF form or comment directly on a PDF.
  1. Open your PDF (e.g. file.pdf) in Acrobat Professional 8.
  2. Select "enable usage rights in Adobe Reader" from the "Advanced" menu.
  3. Save the Reader-enabled copy with a new file name or you will overwrite your original PDF. (e.g. file-re.pdf)
There you go, now you have a Reader-enabled PDF.

This works great for forms you want to be submitted via e-mail or proofs you want your clients to comment on directly. Suggest Reader-enabled forms to your clients who are environmentally conscious, as electronic forms save paper.

Alternatively, if you are a client working with a graphic designer and you'd like to be able to save and e-mail PDF forms or comment on PDFs, ask your graphic designer for a Reader enabled PDF.

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Hi! My name is Emily.

Welcome to my art blog. I am a freelance graphic designer and illustrator available for work in the Toronto area.

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